A summer trip to Hungary
Last week I tasted with Atheana Bochanis from Palinkerie Imports https://www.palinkerie.com at the wonderful wine bar Ardesia https://www.ardesia-ny.com/ owned by a dear friend of mine Mandy Oser some of her new wines.
First up was a Hárslevelű by Kis Tamás, from Somlói Vándor winery from north of Lake Balaton. Somló is a tiny appellation with basalt rich loess soils from an extinct volcano. The name means “Linden Leaf” as the leaf of the Linden tree (another name for the Lime tree) closely resembles the leaves of the vine, and the aromatics of the grape also reflect the fragrance of the Linden tree blossom. It’s more common used in the production of Tokaji as a partner with Furmint.
This 2018 vintage tastes delicious, fresh and sippy but not too heavy. Touch of dried apricot, exotic fruit flavors and a nice salty finish. Great just for a glass of wine on the patio or with some appetizer like a smoked fish with cream cheese or dry saucisson. Vintage 2018
Second wine was Zöld Veltelini (also know as Grüner Veltliner) form the same region. Grüner Veltliner is the most prominent grape in Austria and those two countries have a long history together ( Austrian Hungarian Empire ) so it’s not a surprise that Hungary has a lot of GV planted. This wine has been fermented spontaneous on the skin for additional 6 month in barrel. Jász Laci is the name of the producer and is well know for his natural and low intervention wine making style.
A powerful wine, full of flavors, amber colored, nutty, salty, savery. WOW what a great wine with cheese! Just imagine a couple year old Gouda which has the salty and tangieness and this gorgeous wine… just delicious . Vintage is 2018
And last but not least we tasted a super tasty red wine, I recommend to serve it slightly chilled. Kékfrankos aka Blaufränkisch, another grape that’s been grown in Austria in Burgenland and in Western Hungary around the Lake Balaton. Volcanic soils as well and no fining, no filtration and whole clusters are processed without sulfur. Aged in french used barrels to give texture. Spice, herbaceous touch, meaty, smoky, reminds you of a northern Rhone Syrah. Great for BBQ on the Patio on a nice summer evening. Vintage 2018